Dodging masses of pedestrians along crowded sidewalks on one of Shanghai’s busy shopping streets, my friend, Rui, and I followed a 30-something Chinese man.  He glanced backwards surreptitiously every so often to be sure we were still following him. Finally he turned into a narrow alley and signaled for us to follow him down a dark, dirty, cramped passageway — an old neighborhood of sorts hidden inside the modern city.  Walking past opened and closed doors, we continued zigzagging our way deeper into the bowels of a seldom visited (by outsiders) section of the city.  Stopping at a plain black wooden door, he ran a bell.  Some one answered but said we had to wait.  We glanced up and down the alley — laundry hung above our heads on bamboo scaffolding that doubled as storage and perhaps balconies.  One woman brushed her teeth spitting into a big metal bowl.  Another woman stood washing her face in an outdoor sink.  People stopped and stared at us.  Finally we were allowed inside.  A small, clean room was filled with shelf-fulls of faux designer purses, wallets, luggage, and watches — all black market merchandise.  They spoke no English so I busied myself looking at “knock-off” Channel, Louis Vuiton, Guccci, and Prada purses while Rui and the shopkeeper haggled.  We did not buy anything; we had not planned to.  (The real bags cost $500 – 1000.  Who wants to walk around with fake ones that make people think you are decadent enough to spend that kind of money on a purse?)  We were just there for the adventure.  When Rui said they did not have what she was looking for, they led us through a tiny door we had not noticed, into a larger room with more shelves and purses with even more expensive price tags.  Eventually we were taken to two other secret locations in the area, one even more crowded and dirty which was hard to believe possible.  The conditions in these slums are squalid.  It appears that they have electricity but maybe not running water.  It is so crowded in the alleys — the two sides of the “street” so close together – that it feels like you are indoors.  And because their rooms are so small, the residents must spend much of their time outside — washing clothes, bathing, working.  This was a real third world experience, and one that will stay in my mind forever!

Shangahi KENTUCKY FRIED CHICKEN

All the way to Shanghai to get served a Kentucky Fried Chicken sandwich!  John and Tongan were certainly disappointed with their conference lunch the first day.  Tongan’s mouth watered every time he thought about the bauzi that Rui and I had eaten at Yang’s, the famous snack street vendor.  Although in China, KFC, McDonald’s, and Pizza Hut are very popular restaurants.  HaagenDas and Star Bucks are big business, too. KFC’s are very nicely decorated, dine-in restaurants with real plates, silverware, and cloth napkins.  One night we enjoyed an appetizer of escargot there.  The menu is extensive…and expensive compared to local food.  Go figure!

John's picture from lunch

Restaurant where John and Tongan ate