October 31, 2008

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1.3 billion people need to be fed!  So the Chinese people make use of every available, edible thing — even if “foreigners” don’t think it’s edible.  People here eat out even more than Americans do.  It’s very inexpensive. And it’s less time consuming.

They love to eat, and they love choices.  They never order just one thing.  The group chooses a meat, a fish, a vegetable, and another item plus a personal bowl of rice, and small desserts (not sweet like American desserts).

The waiter brings the items from the kitchen as they are ready.  Your dessert may come first…whatever comes, you eat it then.  Each diner has a small plate (the size of a teacup saucer).  You put food from the serving bowl on your plate — just a few bites at a time.  If several things arrive simultaneously, you serve yourself a few bites of each, and then keep adding to  your plate throughout the meal.

But restaurant dining is probably not how people eat out  most often.  They buy “snacks” from the street vendors and the small kiosks set up everywhere.  These snacks, hot or cold, are consumed day and night.

No part of an animal is wasted.  We have eaten some interesting dishes, including a big bowl of pork fat, pig hooves, and duck neck — favorite dishes over here.  The fish is often served whole –head and tail included — so you can pick the bones and not miss anything.  My favorite is mandarin fish — its speckled flesh and fins make a beautiful presentation.

We’ve also eaten eel, octopus, crab. shrimp, and quite a few other fish whose names are unpronounceable to me.  Sometimes they are minced and eaten with pine nuts or a vegetable or put into a soup.

There are many vegetable choices but the serving sizes are small (we’re eating our multi-vitamin every day).   My favorite veggie so far is lily bulb.  We’ve had some interesting fruit, also.  Fiery dragon is wild-looking on the outside and pretty on the inside (pure white with black speckles).

Chopsticks are the norm, but spoons are also on the table, never knives or forks.  If something needs to be cut (like the whole fish), you use your chopsticks.

Etiquette is quite different.  If you have a bone or other undesirable in your mouth, you spit it out on the table or a small plate.  Your rice bowl comes up to your mouth and the rice is shoveled in with the chopsticks.  Don’t forget to bring your own napkins!  If the restaurant has any, you will be charged if you order one.

P1030032 In between our visit to Shanghai and Beijing, we visited two “water township”, cities west of Shanghai which are built on man-made canals. Zhouzhuang is an ancient city whose inner section has only 8 streets; the remaining travel ways are canals.  Souzhou has many canals but it is a bustling city of 6 million. The canals are a pleasant way to travel because the roads are totally congested. We hired boat and driver for a peaceful ride, observing the old homes along the shores of the Grand Canal, the world’s largest man-made waterway.  Construction on the canal was begun in 486 BC and finished over the next one thousand years, linking the Yellow and Yangtze Rivers.  Many of the buildings in this section date back five dynasties (to the 1200’s) and people are still living there.

Just like it’s done in Venice, we were poled down the canal, and even serenaded. Our driver, a very tanned middle-aged man with an engaging smile, told us stories and facts about the city’s history and sang a traditional folk song. Rui and I clapped heartily and told him he had a beautiful voice (which he did) so he treated us to two more songs, one about the beautiful flowers of Suzhou (Rui translated part of it for me).

Later we had lunch in one of the little cafes along the canal — very fresh fish. They were swimming in a tank when we first arrived!  For dessert I purchased a bag of fresh lychees from a street vendor.  After peeling and eating several, I realized that they were sitting in water.  Not knowing where the old woman had gotten the water, I chewed a Pepto Bismol tablet to help prevent the possibility of Traveler’s Diarrhea.  (We did this several times throughout the trip when food or water was a bit suspect, and it seemed to work because we did not have any major gastrointestinal problems).

Suzhou has been famous for its silk products for centuries.  At one of the silk factories, we saw how the silk worm cocoons are boiled in hot water and then the threads are wound onto spools to be used to make their quilts, scarves, shawls, handkerchiefs and other beautiful products.  In the town market place, we bargained for a few scarves, and an embroidered wall hanging.

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